Hidden Treasures: The untold stories of resilience, rituals, and legacies of Bungoma

Located in the western part of Kenya, near the border with Uganda, Bungoma County is a region of lush landscapes, rolling hills, and a vibrant culture deeply rooted in history.

This land, shaped by the towering presence of Mount Elgon, is a place where tradition and resilience flow through its rivers and forests, hills and plains.

With its rich agricultural lands, strong sense of community, and diverse population, Bungoma is a cradle of stories that, though often unheard beyond the region, are woven into the very soil and stones of this landscape.

Bungoma town itself has become a remarkable hub in western Kenya, known for its stability and resilience. During the turbulent 2007-2008 post-election violence, when most of Kenya was gripped by unrest, Bungoma stood as a safe haven for people from across the country.

Businesses in Bungoma continued operating almost uninterrupted, providing vital services and a welcoming refuge to those fleeing turmoil in other areas.

This stability and hospitality cemented Bungoma’s reputation as a vibrant, peaceful town, essential for trade and cultural exchange in the region.

Today, it’s one of the fastest-growing towns in western Kenya, attracting a wealth of investors, businesspeople, and public services that support the community’s needs.

With many key government offices located here, including the immigration office, the Western Region office of the Ethics and Anti-Corruption Commission (EACC), the Office of the Director of Public Prosecutions (ODPP), and others, Bungoma serves as an administrative center that rivals neighboring counties.

Major companies, including Isuzu Kenya and Toyota Kenya, have established offices in the town, recognising its strategic importance and promising growth. This expansion has positioned Bungoma as a dynamic hub, integrating business, governance, and community life, drawing people from all over the country.

To truly appreciate the spirit of Bungoma, one must go back to 1895, when the Bukusu people, a dominant community in the region, fiercely resisted British colonial forces in the Lumboka-Bunyala battles.

This was long before the famed Mau Mau resistance, yet the Bukusu warriors showed equal tenacity in defending their land and way of life. Using bows, spears, and a profound determination, they faced the British, sparking one of Kenya’s earliest acts of defiance.

“The Bukusu people were fearless,” recalls local historian Stephen Wafula. “They believed in their land, their gods, and their duty to protect their heritage.”

This story, though little-known, remains a powerful testament to Bungoma’s early fight for autonomy and pride.

Nestled within the slopes of Mount Elgon are a series of ancient caves, rich in minerals, that attract wildlife and humans alike.

These caves are famous for hosting salt-seeking elephants, but they are much more to the Bukusu people a place of sacred importance, woven with the legends of lost tribes and ancestral spirits.

“These caves were once hideouts for warriors, and some believe they housed a forgotten tribe that vanished without a trace,” shares elder John Masinde from the Cheptais village.

“Some nights, you can still hear whispers if you listen closely.”

For centuries, these caves served as meeting points, shelters, and ritual spaces, anchoring Bungoma’s history with layers of mystery and reverence.

Each August, Bungoma comes alive with the sounds of drums and singing as young Bukusu boys undergo khuminya, Khulicha, the region’s distinctive circumcision rite.

More than a physical act, Khulicha is a rite of passage that signifies courage, respect, and community belonging.

“Khulicha isn’t just a ceremony; it’s a symbol of our identity and strength,” explains teacher and cultural guardian Sarah Nabwami.

“We believe it instills courage, respect, and a sense of belonging.” For the Bukusu, Khulicha preserves a deeply valued tradition, affirming their way of life and binding generations through a shared cultural heritage.

Another gem in Bungoma’s story is the Chebwai Salt Lick, which once served as a major centre for trade in pre-colonial Kenya. Salt, which was highly valued, attracted traders from across the region, creating a bustling economy long before colonial times.

Chebwai offered not only salt but also a place to share news, celebrate alliances, and form trade bonds. “Salt was the original currency,” notes Wafula, the historian.

“And here in Chebwai, our ancestors were building an economy long before Kenya as we know it existed.” This salt lick reflects Bungoma’s legacy as a region of economic exchange and cultural connectivity.

Bungoma’s spirit lives not only in its towns, caves, and salt licks but also in its dense Cheptais Forest, believed by the Bukusu to be a home for ancient spirits who continue to watch over the land.

Locals speak of strange sightings and sounds echoes of footsteps or shadows seen in the mist.

“Whether or not you believe in spirits, it’s a reminder of the people who once walked here with purpose and pride,” says forest ranger Ben Omukunda. “Their stories give our land meaning and remind us to honor our past.”

In its growing towns, ancient traditions, and timeless landscapes, Bungoma County stands as a testament to Kenya’s rich cultural heritage and resilience.

As the country progresses, these stories serve as reminders of the diverse histories that contribute to the nation’s identity.

Bungoma’s legacy, woven from strength, pride, and community, is one that will inspire future generations.

All photos Courtesy of Jesse Chenge.