Malakisi: The rise and fall of the now forgotten gem of Western Kenya
In the far-flung corners of Western Kenya, hidden between lush fields and winding roads, lies a town that was once the heart beat of a thriving empire.
Malakisi, a name that evokes images of gold and prosperity now stands in silence, a ghost town caught between memory and myth.
Established at around 1848, this was no ordinary settlement; it was a booming industrial hub, where farmers, merchants, and dreamers converged, bound by the promise of opportunity and wealth.
The Golden Years: Malakisi’s Economic Boom
Malakisi’s prosperity was rooted in cotton. During the mid-20th century, the town’s cotton industry became its lifeblood, supplying products across East Africa and providing a steady income to thousands of farmers.
“Malakisi was a place where money flowed,” recalls longtime resident Mohamed Lukhale. “Every household had someone in the cotton business.”
With a bustling ginnery on its outskirts, the town produced everything from Udo bar soap to cooking oil, animal feed, and cotton wool, earning Malakisi its reputation as the industrial capital of the current Bungoma County.
The cotton industry wasn’t the town’s only claim to fame. As a cosmopolitan center, Malakisi was home to a mix of Kenyan and Ugandan tribes, adding layers to its cultural heritage. Malakisi was also closely linked to the Chepkube coffee-smuggling business on the Kenya-Uganda border.
“Our people would work in Malakisi and sleep at Chepkube. The two towns were like twins,” says Haman Kasili, a representative of the Kenya Chamber of Commerce.
The trade brought a steady flow of business to local hotels and merchants, further strengthening the town’s economy.
A Storied Past of Spiritual Significance and Resistance
Malakisi’s importance extended beyond its economic value. To the Bukusu community, the town held deep cultural and spiritual significance.
According to local lore, it was here that the first Bukusu man, Mango, was circumcised after slaying a giant snake that had terrorised the area. The site, known as Mwiyala wa Mango, remains a cherished landmark to this day.
The town also played a significant role in Kenya’s colonial history. In 1948, Elijah Masinde and his followers in the Dini ya Musambwa movement launched a resistance against British colonial rule from Malakisi.
Seen as a messianic figure, Masinde inspired his followers to resist, claiming that he had spoken to God, who had promised an end to colonial oppression.
“To us, Masinde was like a prophet,” explains Suleiman Sisungo, a community elder. The British response was brutal; in a bloody confrontation, they killed eleven sect leaders and shattered the movement, leaving scars on Malakisi that persist to this day.
The Downward Spiral: Insecurity and Policy Changes
Malakisi’s decline began in the late 1980s, when rising insecurity, political interference, and stringent government taxes forced investors to leave.
“It was as if the town was suddenly cursed,” reflects Kasili. Factories shuttered their doors, and business owners sought refuge in larger towns like Bungoma, Kimilili, and Kitale, where they felt their investments would be safer. “The tax policies became unbearable. Investors couldn’t survive here,” Kasili adds.
By 1996, local farmers acquired the ginnery’s assets, hoping to revive the industry. However, without adequate support or training, the ginnery soon collapsed, and by the early 2000s, scrap metal dealers had stripped its remaining equipment. “All that’s left are ruins,” laments Lukhale. “Where there was once the hum of machines, now there’s only silence.”
A Community Left in Decline
Today, Malakisi’s streets are nearly deserted. Buildings that once housed thriving businesses now sit empty, overtaken by weeds. The decline is not unique to Malakisi; towns like Webuye, Mumias, and Chepkube have faced similar fates.
Locals like Sisungo advocate for revitalisation, suggesting that a university campus or technical college could stimulate the economy. “Education is the way forward,” he says. “It would give young people a reason to stay and build a future here.”
Others suggest infrastructure improvements to reconnect Malakisi to major trade routes. Tarmacking the Kimaeti-Lwakhakha road, for instance, could attract traders and create new opportunities for local businesses.
However, large-scale cotton farming may no longer be viable, as land fragmentation has made it challenging to maintain the scale needed for profitability. “Cotton farming is no longer an option,” admits Sisungo. “But alternative crops like sunflower, groundnuts, and sorghum could bring life back to our land.”
Lessons from Malakisi: A Call for Sustainable Development
The story of Malakisi serves as a powerful reminder of the importance of sustainable growth and effective governance.
The once-thriving town, which stood as a beacon of prosperity, now lies as a monument to the risks of neglect and poor policy.
“We were once a place of gold,” Lukhale says, looking at the town’s dilapidated structures with a mixture of pride and sorrow. “All we want is for Malakisi to live again.”
As Kenya looks toward the future, Malakisi’s legacy is a testament to resilience and the enduring spirit of its people.
Though its streets may be quiet now, the memory of Malakisi’s golden years continues to inspire hope for a new chapter one where the town might once again echo with the sounds of industry, community, and growth.
